CROATIA - Phil & Jill

Do you know where cravats come from?

06.09.2019

You could hear the rain on the rooftop over night. We had read the forecast and seen the expected rain dropping the temperature to 18 degrees. So we rested and checked paperwork until we went out shortly after lunch.

This time we knew the way to the Square where the market stalls were all set up with their plastic sheets protecting the products from the rain.

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Phil was keen to get to the Museum of Broken Relationships as it is written up in the guide books for Zagreb as a 'must do'. Of course he thought it would be not far the sign but I knew it was up in the upper part of the old town. We needed to find the funicular which is the oldest in Europe having been powered by steam when it was first constructed. It is also the shortest and takes one minute but a valuable lift for those who find steep hills difficult. However before I could find where it was Phil had started up the side road which only got steeper!! He paid for that decision poor man!!

I loved the Halloween window on the way up and the typical Croatian souvenirs in the gift shop

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We passed the Dolac market which was opened in 1930. It is the largest and most popular market in Zagreb. We passed by the Museum of Torture (Phil didn't think he was up to that probably thinks he has enough of his own living with me!!!).

The humble tie is featured in many of the shops in Zagreb

The reason for this is very interesting. During the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, Croatian light cavalry, known for their great bravery, joined the ranks of the French Army. Military skills and the original appearence of the Croatian soldiers were affirmed in 1664 with the founding of the Croatian regiment, the Royal Cravates, within the French Army. A special feature of their uniforms was a red ribbon - a necktie that girls used to put around young men's necks before they went to war. Necktie, until recently the essential accessory of every modern man originates from those brave Croatian soldiers.

We got to the top of the street to the Stone Gate near the Kaptol area where behind a grill gate there is a statute of the Blessed Virgin Mary which is supposed to have magical powers. There were many devoutly praying to her. The Upper Town consists of lots of narrow lanes and was first settled in the 11th century.

Continuing to climb you come to the most photographed building in Zagreb. The St Marks church with its beautiful colourful tiled roof and the Croatian Sabor Parliament. We were not there on the right day as every Saturday and Sunday they have an elaborate Changing of the Guard ceremony. However we were lucky enough to witness the excitement of two brides coming out and going in for their civil martiage ceremonies at the Town Hall. The two brides couldn't have been more different.

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Starting now to go down the hill we finally came to the Museum of Broken Relationships
This is an innovative concept that displays mementos of failed relationships and the stories around them. It was not only romantic relationship breakdowns but family deaths; refugees fleeing and taking a momento with them; the impact of breast cancer on a failed relationship with a changed body; family sibling breakdowns; grandparents losing out on grandchildren and vice versa after divorces; accidents and of course martial and partnershop breakdowns. It was very thought provoking, funny and emotional stirring stuff. You also asked yourself what would be the single most thing you loved or hated within the many relationships we have in 'one' life. We both loved it and it made for great discussion over dinner. The museum was so well patronised that we had to wait for 20 mins before entry. Fortunately there was a coffee shop on the premises. The content of the museum was well worth the wait.

Among the items were voo doo dolls made out of clothing from a person's former partners. A stick given to a girl to remember the twists and bends in life and a refugee's photo of the tea cup her mother gave her in fleeing Syria and to remember to always welcome someone into your home with a cup of tea no matter how bad things might be.

At the belvedere area overlooking the cityscape stands the Lotrscak Tower where a cannon is fired every day at noon allegedly to commemorate Zagreb's victory over the Turks.